Crafting Beauty from Mourning

Creating Caps from Vintage Funeral Kimonos

We often shy away from the topic of death, but, to me, there is an understated beauty in the tradition of funeral kimonos. These garments, rich in history and symbolism, are a part of the final tribute to a loved one’s life. By transforming these vintage textiles into caps, I find a poetic resonance that celebrates life through an artisanal process, blending the past with the present in a meaningful way.

The fading tradition of Mofuku, funeral kimono

What is mofuku?

The mofuku (喪服) or funeral kimono is an all-black outfit traditionally worn when mourning. Here, I am only referring to the women's outfits since I do not use the men’s ones in my work. The strictly traditional version of mofuku is only composed of black items apart from the tabi (socks) and nagajuban (underwear) which must be white. I will skip the detailed description of each and every item to jump directly to the obi (sash) which is the one I use to create the caps. But if you have an interest in wearing a kimono and would like to learn more about the different items used for mourning, I recomend you to read Chayatsuji Kimono’s blog post on this topic which is well synthesised.

However, the use of mofuku has been declining, much like the general use of kimonos. Firstly, mofuku is no longer the only option for funerals, as Western-style black attire are more commonly worn. Secondly, because it's not an outfit one hopes to wear frequently, women who choose to wear mofuku often prefer renting it from a kimono dresser rather than keeping a full set inherited from their family in their closet for life. This is why I encounter all these beautiful black obi when I go kimono shopping and a big part of them are still brand new, often with the original tag on.

Beauty in symbolism and texture

The reason why I love using these obi so much is their intricating and subtle woven motifs. And as someone who wears a lot of black, I love textured black fabrics a lot. I also like the idea that when wearing mofuku, even though colour (and dye) is not allowed but people can still wear patterns and make their outfits unique. The choice of pattern adds extra significance to the outfit. The patterns on mofuku obi often represent elements of nature such as flowers or water flowing. They reflect a deep respect for the natural world and its cycles, evoking at the same time the ephemerality of life on Earth. These textured patterns offer a silent yet powerful tribute to the departed.

On some obi, in rare cases, I have observed some lamé threads giving a real shiny details to the motif, like the one on the first photo below. At first I thought they weren’t mofuku but it appears that as long as the lamé is black (an don’t silver for example) it is “safe” to wear as mofuku. For me, this kind of obi has even a party vibe and I imagine the person wearing it for a funeral wanting to incorporate a touch of sparkle to their outfit, adding a subtle element of joy. The second photo shows both sides of the same obi. One side is made in a satin weaving, and the other side, showing a stripy texture, is a summer crepe. This kind of obi can be worn both in summer and winter. I usually select this obi type so I can use the summer fabric at the back of the cap, in the same way, that we use a mesh fabric on baseball caps.

Infusing new life and meaning into vintage fabrics

An artisanal process

As always, I source the obi during my regular fabric hunts ( if you are curious about where I go kimono hunting, I wrote an article about it a few months ago). I am always appealed by natural motifs such as waves of flowers. I look out for those who are in great condition and, sadly, it is easy to do so. I say “ sadly” because I am always surprised (when not shocked) that entirely new items, made of 100% silk which is a precious material and requires such skill to weave, are discarded without ever being worn. Some of them were probably never bought by anyone in the first place and were discarded by the shop selling them or the manufacturer. Unfortunately, this is one of the nonsense we can observe in other industries nowadays, like fashion or food, but it is another story.

Once I have a good selection, that’s usually when they start feeling heavy on my arms, I bring them back to my studio where I carefully deconstruct them, paying attention to preserving the integrity of the fabric and its patterns. I iron them and sort them by types of fabrics and motifs before sending them to my collaborator who will assemble them. If my expertise in crafting bags has grown over the years, making beautifully finished caps presents an entirely different challenge. Luckily I have met M.Ikegami, a hat maker who does it perfectly and I am thrilled to be working with him since 2018.

M.Ikegami for the Fashion Revolution campaign 2020

The creative and emotional layers of making these caps

Behind my upcycling concept, along with the idea that using what already exists is always better than creating new resources from scratch, I also put a deeper meaning into my creation. I want to connect the past and the present in each piece that I, or my partner, stitch(es). Each cap is a unique piece, infused with the history and symbolism of the obi it once was. This process not only breathes new life into the fabric but also allows the wearer to carry a piece of history with them, creating a tangible connection to the past.

Creating caps from funeral kimonos bridges generations and cultures. It allows the traditions of the past to find relevance in contemporary life. This art form connects us to a rich cultural heritage, fostering an appreciation for the beauty and meaning embedded in these vintage textiles. The hypnotic allure of the monochrome textured fabric serves as a reminder that timeless beauty and meaning can be found in the most unexpected places, inviting us to look closer and cherish the stories woven into every thread.

The black obi caps are crafted only once or twice a year. The current collection is visible in the shop.

More similar fabrics to re-appreciate

If you feel seduced by these interacting textured fabrics, I invite you to have a look at my archives to see more designs created from such fabrics such as large travel bags or handbags.

Similar fabrics are also available in the Mikan collection. You can read about each fabric in detail, view photos and close-ups and even order an original Mikan bag made of it. The collection gathered over 40 different vintage fabrics with many motifs, organized by colour themes. Scroll down to the bottom to see the black ones.

You can also use these fabrics to create your own Mikan bag under my guidance by joining a sewing workshop in Kyoto. All my classes are open to all levels, even if you don’t have any sewing skills yet.